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Born:

TBC, Vermont, USA

Biggest achievement:

First ascent of China Glide (5.14d/9a), Rumney / First ascent of Oppositional Defiance Disorder (5.14a), Adirondacks / Repeat of Ozone (5.14), the Gunks' hardest trad climb.

DMM athlete since:

TBC

Pete Kamitses is a Vermont-based climber and one of the most accomplished trad route developers in the northeastern United States. His passion lies in the remote Adirondack Park in upstate New York, where he has established some of the hardest pure trad routes in the region, including Oppositional Defiance Disorder (5.14a) and the Adirondacks' first 5.14a, Ill Fire, both on the imposing walls of Moss Cliff. He came to climbing the summer after high school in 1994 and describes the moment halfway up his first outdoor climb as an instant, total conversion. Over thirty years later the same fire is still burning. His sport climbing résumé is equally impressive, including the first ascent of China Glide (5.14d/9a) at Rumney, New Hampshire, and a repeat of the Gunks' hardest trad climb, Ozone (5.14). A natural power endurance climber who thrives on long routes with good flow, Pete brings the same methodical, grateful approach to hard projecting that he brings to everything else in his climbing life, guided by the belief that the process is always the best part.

"The process is the best part anyway. The learning that takes place, the beta refinement and efficiency tactics: that's the heart and soul of projecting. Gotta love it."

Get to know Pete

When did you start climbing?

I started climbing the summer after high school in 1994. Literally halfway up my first vertical outdoor top rope I knew I had found something that ticked more boxes than anything else I had gotten into in my life thus far.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Some of my most significant achievements have been the first ascents of hard trad headpoints in the Adirondacks of New York, specifically routes at 5.13 and 5.14. These places are remote, the routes are serious, and the whole process of finding, cleaning and climbing them means everything to me.

Have you ticked anything off your bucket list?

Hotel Supramonte, a 10-pitch overhanging limestone sport climb in the Gola di Gorropu in Sardinia. A handful of 5.13 pitches up to 5.13d, the rest 5.12. Sending every pitch in a day after significant effort working them out was quite a feat for me.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

My favourite style, which happens to be what I am best at, is long power endurance routes with good flow. I have always been best at climbing fast and staying ahead of the pump. My anti-style is pure power and strength on short boulders or sport climbs.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

By practising gratitude for the ability to have projects in the first place, and always remembering that the process is the best part anyway. And if you hit plateaus, go away, climb other things and come back.

What has climbing taught you?

So much, and it continues to teach me new things. In the beginning it taught me self confidence, belief, focus, passion, discipline, humility and fear control. These days, over 30 years later, I keep learning more patience, better tactics and deeper appreciation for the human partnerships climbing has given me.

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