Born:

TBC, Peak District, England

Biggest achievement:

Deep Blue Sea on the Eiger / The Fish on the south face of the Marmolada / Eye of the Tiger E7, Dovedale.

DMM athlete since:

2026

Katie Keeley is a Peak District-born climber, expedition leader and aspiring mountain guide with a passion for adventure that spans trad, big walls, alpine routes and expedition climbing. Originally drawn to the mountains during years spent living in the Dolomites and Austria, she has since built an impressive and wide-ranging CV that reaches E7 on trad and 8a+ on sport. Away from the rock she is an experienced expedition leader and languages teacher currently working towards her Mountain Instructor Certificate. Her plans for the coming year capture her ambitions perfectly: a spring focused on UK trad in Ireland, Wales and Scotland, followed by a month in Skardu, Pakistan mentoring local female climbing guides with Ascend Athletics, and six weeks on an expedition climbing granite in the Charskusa Valley. Cochamo in Chile holds the top spot as her favourite place on earth, but with a bucket list that keeps on growing, there is plenty more of the world still to explore. 

"Climbing has taught me how to explore the deeper parts of my own psyche and to get comfortable with being uncomfortable. I am capable of much more than I initially think I am."

Get To Know Katie Keeley

Did you always know you were going to be a climber?

Although I didn't get into outdoor rock and trad until my twenties, I always loved climbing things. My mum likes to tell the story of me climbing the wrong way up all the slides at 12 months old, finding me in random places like on the top of the wardrobe, and even the roof of our house when I was 6, nearly giving her a heart attack! So I think the need to climb things has always drawn me in on some level.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

It wasn’t necessarily my hardest or biggest climb but Eye of the Tiger at Dovedale will always stick with me as a significant achievement because it required so much tenacity and self belief. It was the first time I had really redpointed a trad project, and that determination to keep going back, making micro progress, falling at the same move over again was a great learning experience for me. It was also not my natural style, being quite powerful and overhanging, so the process of seeing something that felt impossible in the beginning, eventually come together was a really powerful moment.

What is the primary objective remaining on your bucket list?

Last Summer in Pembroke I managed Always the Sun, From a Distance and Big in America which had been on my list for a while. Climbing Deep Blue Sea on the Eiger and The Fish on the south face of the Marmolada were also routes I was thrilled to do after thinking about them and being intimidated by them for a few years!

What keeps you motivated?

I think variety is really important to me to keep me motivated and continue growing as a climber. That might look like onsighting in a new location, committing to a harder trad project to redpoint, climbing big walls on expeditions and playing on ice and mixed routes in the winter. A lot of it comes down to the adventure of exploring beautiful places and feeling connected to nature with people I am close to.

What has climbing taught you?

Climbing has taught me how to explore the deeper parts of my own psyche and to get comfortable with being uncomfortable. It helped me realise that I am capable of much more than I initially think I am, and when the stakes are high and the pressure is on, I can make important decisions and keep myself and the people around me safe in challenging situations.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Cochamo in Chile. My favourite climbing area and the most beautiful, magical place I have ever experienced.

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