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Born:

1967, Bolton, Lancashire, England

Biggest achievement:

First ascent of the West Face of Mount Asgard, Baffin Island (1994) / Boardman Tasker Prize winner twice: Deep Play (1997) and The Totem Pole (1999) / Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize (1999)

DMM athlete since:

1986

Paul Pritchard is one of the most significant and inspiring figures in the history of British climbing. Born in Bolton in 1967, he grew up near Wilton Quarry and started climbing at sixteen, quickly becoming one of Britain's leading rock climbers and mountaineers with a legacy of first ascents across the UK, Patagonia, Baffin Island, Yosemite, Kyrgyzstan and the Karakoram. His debut book Deep Play won the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature in 1997, and his second book The Totem Pole won both the Boardman Tasker and the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize in 1999, making him the only author to win the Boardman Tasker twice. The Totem Pole tells the story of a near-fatal brain injury sustained in 1998 when a boulder struck him while climbing the iconic sea stack in Tasmania, leaving him with hemiplegia. Since his accident Paul has continued to lead an adventurous life, climbing mountains on multiple continents, returning to climb the Totem Pole in 2016, and dedicating himself to disability advocacy and the concept known as the dignity of risk. Now based in Hobart, Tasmania, Paul keeps returning to the crags and continues to explore new routes, one moment at a time.

"Climbing has taught me how to live. The constant struggle of climbing mirrors the constant struggle of life. Nobody gets away easy. In this way climbing shows us how to be more compassionate."

Get to know Paul

When did you start climbing?

1983. A Physics teacher at school took a bunch of us wayward pupils climbing. I grew up seeing climbers most days from near Wilton Quarry, and my mates and I used to copy them with bailing twine for ropes. But it wasn't until that teacher provided us with proper gear that I realised I was actually pretty good at this.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Probably the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island in 1994. Though Adam Wainwright and I also made a three-day speed ascent of Trango Tower in 1995, which was pretty memorable.

Which route keeps calling you back?

The Needles in Tasmania. About 100 metres of bone white quartzite with lots of new routes still to do, and only a 90-minute walk in. Perfect.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

My biggest project has been these 29 years of healing since my brain injury on the Totem Pole. I now take life one moment at a time, not even one day at a time. I have long-term goals, but everything is chunked. I have become very good at chunking.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Andy Parkin once told me that difficulty is relative. Now I get just the same out-there experience climbing a new HVS as I did climbing onsight E8 back in the day.

What has climbing taught you?

How to live. The constant struggle of climbing mirrors the constant struggle of life. Nobody gets away easy. In this way climbing shows us how to be more compassionate.

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